BOILED WOOL, FELTED WOOL, FULLED WOOL
There is much confusion about the
terms above. Bear with
me for just a little background.
Wool is a natural fiber that
has a scaled structure. Wool fibers
can be processed several ways: woven into fabric, knitted into
fabric or sweaters, or layered into felt.
If you take either woven wool fabric or knitted wool and
throw it in your washer, add hot water, agitate, cold water
rinse it and toss it in the dryer, what will you get?
A shrunken wool mess. But if
you process it a little more carefully you can control the final
product.
There's a lot of fabric being
marketed as boiled wool. Basically it
has been partially shrunk but the woven or knitted structure of
the fabric is still visible. It still
has some bias stretch and depending upon how much it
has been shrunk it may or may not
ravel slightly. Usually this wool is used for wool
applieques with the edges of the appliques stitched in
buttonhole stitch.
FULLED wool, on the other hand,
has been processed more. It has been
shrunk until the woven structure of the fabric is no longer
visible. It is quite thick, usually
more than 1/4 inch thick, has no bias stretch and the edges do
not ravel or fray. In other words,
the scales on the wool fibers have opened up, interlocked, then
when you cold water rinse hot dry the fabric, they shrink
together and close up. It looks like
very thick Polar Fleece. This is what
I make quilts out of. I recycle old
woolen clothing into fulled wool or I buy new woolen yardage and
hand dye it then full it. This
process is outlined in detail in my
article, "Fulled Wool Quilts" which appeared in the
Winter 2003 issue of American Quilter magazine.
Good heavens!
What was I thinking?
Actually, there is some logic
behind this. In the winter of 2000 I
was trying to come up with an unusual crazy quilt to enter into
a competition that was to be held at the Minnesota Quilters
annual show. As I studied my other
crazy quilts I realized that, because most of the construction
seams on crazy quilts are sew and flip seams, the majority of
the seamlines are straight. Many
crazy quilters diligently work to add curved lines into their
quilts: appliquéing in curved pieces, adding curved lines of
embellishments, etc. What would it
look like, I wondered, if there were NO straight lines in a
crazy quilt . . . . only CURVED
lines?
The idea of piecing all those
curves discouraged me. I know several
ways of doing it but none of them thrilled me.
Too bad there wasn't some fabric that I could just lay
two layers together, rotary cut a curved seam then abut these
curved cut edges and machine join them together.
There are two fabrics:
Ultrasuede and fulled wool.
Ultrasuede seemed to be lacking in the "cuddly" factor, but
wool. . . . I thought
I'd give it a try. My first
fulled wool quilt, "Only Curves Crazy" is shown below.

I used old 100% wool clothing
bought at second hand stores, took the clothing apart and fulled
the wool in my washer. Along the way
I discovered that when you put wool in boiling water a LOT of
dye gets released. So when I found a
white wool cape to take apart, I started throwing pieces of
white wool in with the colors to soak up the released dye (and
get lighter shades of wool). This
eventually led me to buying 30 yards
of white wool from a rug hooker to start hand dyeing many shades
of colors.
In ONLY CURVES CRAZY I used
many different machine stitches to join the pieces together,
using variegated Pearl Cotton threads.
Since this piece was to be for my husband it has only a
few Ultrasuede appliqué embellishments: a Loon, a Painted
Trillium, a moose, a wolf and some pine trees.
The edges are curved also. The
backing is a red plaid cotton upholstery material.
This piece does have a cotton batt in it and is machine
stipple quilted. With the fulled
wool you really don't need a batting.
To see another sample of a
fulled wool crazy quilt please click here.
To see a sample of some thread embellishing on fulled wool,
please click here.
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